Rome: Pizzeria Dal Paino, Piazza Navona

pizza alla capricciosa
I wasn’t giving up. I still wanted to find great pizza in Italy. My search took us to Pizzeria Baffeto which was in several lists of ‘must eats’ in Rome.

What I neglected to read on my research was the opening hours of Baffeto. No wonder there were no lines, the pizzeria was open for dinner only.
Pizzeria Baffeto

It’s a good thing they had a suggestion for an alternative. They even included business cards inside.
Pizzeria Dal Paino

So we went to look for Hosatria Pizzeria Dal Paino which was just around the corner.
Pizzeria Dal Paino-001

Pizzeria Dal Paino-003 Pizzeria Dal Paino-004

The wood burning oven looked promising.

Pizzeria Dal Paino-005 Pizzeria Dal Paino-006

Pizzeria Dal Paino-007

We ordered 2 pieces of fried zucchini flowers since Sharon didn’t want any but the kind waiter gave us 3 pieces. I’m glad he did since it was fantastic. It was freshly cooked so the cheese inside was melted and gooey while the thin batter gave the zucchini flowers a nice crunch.
Pizzeria Dal Paino - fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers) €2.50
fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers) €2.50

Our pizza alla capricciosa had tomatoes, mozzarella, mushrooms, artichokes, sausage, peppers, onions, and a fried egg on top. It was the best pizza we had in Italy but it’s not as good as some pizzas I”ve eaten in Manila or the US. I guess I’m just used to ‘Americanized’ pizza.
pizza alla capricciosa €9
pizza alla capricciosa €9

The crust was really thin and crisp the way I liked it but the toppings were a little dry and there wasn’t very much cheese. I guess this is as good as pizza gets in Rome.
pizza alla capricciosa-001

The pizza Margherita was simple and good too.
pizza Margherita €6
pizza Margherita €6

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Pizzeria Dal Paino's menu
Pizzeria Dal Paino’s menu (click to enlarge)

This store’s signs caught my attention.

Too Much store in Rome Too Much store in Rome-002

Too much?!
Too Much store in Rome-001
Too Much store

After lunch we walked to Piazza Navona.
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Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of the Four Rivers

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There were many tourists in Piazza Navona but only two umbrella toting Asians.

Piazza Navona Piazza Navona-001

Our next stop was the 400 year old Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, one of the world’s oldest pharmacies.
Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-001

Their perfumes are the most popular products.

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-002 Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-006

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-003

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I didn’t know they made jams too.

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-007 Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-008

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-009

Pizzeria Dal Paino
Via Di Parione 34/35, 00186 Rome, Italy
telephone: 06-68-135-140

Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Corso Rinascimento, 47 Rome, Italy
telephone: +39 06 6879608
website

Rome: Trattoria al Moro, Caffe Greco, Baccano Gelato

Al_Moro_abbacchio_romanesco_al_forno_e_patate_roast_lamb_with_potatoes_24
So far most of the meals we’ve had in Italy were disappointing with some mediocre dishes that served to merely fill our tummies. That changed when we had dinner at Trattoria al Moro.

We were quite famished having skipped lunch and spent the day at the Vatican museum and we arrived a little too early and al Moro was still closed. We walked to the nearby Trevi fountain and Spanish steps for the requisite sightseeing.
Trevi Fountain

This is the fountain made famous by the movie “Three Coins in the Fountain.” I did throw in coins ensuring that I will return to Rome as the legend dictates.
Trevi Fountain -001

Rochelle asked me, “this is it?” Yes these are the famous in the Piazza di Spagna. I still don’t know why so many tourists find the need to sit on those steps. Maybe it’s the only place where they can take a rest.
Spanish Steps

I’m pretty sure you’ve never seen where chestnuts come from before you buy them already roasted and ready to eat. They remind me of the rambutan with it’s spiky exterior.
marroni or chestnuts
marroni or chestnuts

marroni or chestnuts-001

Unfortunately the shops along Via Condotti were already closed so we went in to Caffe Greco instead. This is the oldest and most well known bar in Rome having been established in 1760!
Caffe Greco
Caffe Greco

Caffe Greco-003

We bought a slice of the chocolate chip ricotta cheese cake and the strawberry tart for our dessert back at the B&B where we can enjoy it with some espresso.
Caffe Greco-001

Both were delicious!!!
Caffe Greco-002

Finally dinner at al Moro.
Al Moro

Al Moro-001

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Doesn’t our waiter look like an actor? He could be in the cast of The Sopranos or Godfather.
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The bread was warm (rare) and crusty. It was the best bread in a restaurant in Italy.
Al Moro-009

This was Rochelle’s first taste of Rome’s sweet tomatoes and she quickly fell in love with the simple combination of tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, basil and olive oil.
Al Moro-Caprese salad
Caprese salad

Al Moro- artichokes
artichokes

Al Moro- Spaghetti alla Moro €22

Sha ordered the spaghetti alla Moro which turned out to be carbonara with a touch of red pepper flakes. It was incredibly good with the al dente pasta and rich creamy sauce from the eggs. It had a nice subtle heat which cut the richness of the pasta.
Al Moro- Spaghetti alla Moro €22-001
Spaghetti alla Moro €22

Our waiter brought a freshly roasted baby lamb to our table and one whiff at the glorious aroma Rochelle and I immediately pointed and said, “we want that!”

The baby lamb was simply spiced and roasted yet it was the best lamb I’ve ever eaten. The meat was milky and super tender and the flavor was just beyond words. Even the simple baked potatoes with rosemary was so good.
Al Moro- abbacchio romanesco al forno e patate (roast lamb with potatoes) €24
abbacchio romanesco al forno e patate (roast lamb with potatoes) €24

I got a meatier part while Rochelle was given the bonier part. Hmm just like our physiques huh? The baby lamb reminded me of the delicate meat of the cochinillo (baby pig).
Al Moro- abbacchio romanesco al forno e patate (roast lamb with potatoes) €24-001

You should have seen Rochelle strip all the meat from the bones. That’s the good part.
Al Moro- abbacchio romanesco al forno e patate (roast lamb with potatoes) €24-002

I highly recommend a meal at al Moro. It was worth every euro and it was the best meal I had in Italy.

Al Moro menu Al Moro menu-001

al Moro’s menu (click to enlarge)

Naturally we needed gelato to end a most excellent meal. Baccano was actually a restaurant which had it’s own little artisanal gelateria.
Baccano gelato

Baccano gelato-001

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Baccano gelato-003

I got my usual flavors of coffee and dark chocolate two my favorite things in the world. The coffee gelato was really strong and the chocolate was dark the way I like it but it wasn’t as creamy as Flor gelato but I still enjoyed it a lot.
Baccano gelato-004
dark chocolate and coffee

Caffe Greco
Via Condotti, 86, 00187 Rome, Italy
telephone: 06 679 1700
website

Trattoria al Moro
Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 00187 Rome, Italy
telephone: 066 783495
website

Baccano
Via delle Muratte, 23 / 00187 Rome, Italy
telephone: +39 06.69.941.166
website

Rome: Vatican Museum

Vatican Museum
From the Colosseum and after lunch of gelato we rode the Metro to the Vatican Museum. I bought tickets for a guided tour from the Vatican’s website. I advise taking a guided tour so you will know more information about the things inside the big, big museum. The tour which included the Sistine chapel cost €31 for a duration of two hours.

We took the Metro to the Cipro station which was nearest to the Vatican Museum. The entrance to the museum is quite a distance from the Basilica. We bought a one day pass for €6 which can also be used when riding the bus. We rode the bus often and nobody checks if you have a ticket. If you have guts you can get away without paying but if they check and you don’t have a ticket you may get fined.
Vatican
Cipro station

I found tips on this website invaluable when planning our visit to the Vatican and the museum. There are more pictures there on directions to get to the museum from the Cipro station. Anyway we had to climb these stairs to reach the museum.
Cipro station to Vatican Museum

Just follow the signs to the museum.
Cipro station to Vatican Museum-001

Cipro station to Vatican Museum-002

This entire walled area encompasses the Vatican.
Cipro station to Vatican Museum-003

Outside the entrance to the museum was a food truck with brisk business since it was the only one there selling food and ice cold water which we bought despite the high price. I spotted this Nutella & Go + Esta The. It contained cookie sticks which you dip in Nutella and tea. It’s really a complete snack on the go.
Nutella & Go
Nutella & Go + Esta The

I received an email that the Sistine Chapel will be closed at 3:00 pm that day so we went to the museum earlier hoping we can start our tour earlier. This is what it looked like at the entrance. It was so crowded.
Vatican Museum-001

We started our tour at the gardens.
Vatican Museum-002

Vatican Museum-003

This was the last time I wasn’t elbow to elbow with people. It was also the last time I had a breathe of fresh air.
Vatican Museum-004

Vatican Museum-005

Vatican Museum- Tigris or Arno Statue
Tigris or Arno Statue

Vatican Museum- Laocoön
Laocoön and his sons

Vatican Museum- Laocoön-001

This was our tour guide. He was friendly and very knowledgable. There were many, many tour groups inside and I often got left behind taking pictures. It was a good thing he had a flag and I could still hear him on the walkie talkie.
Vatican Museum-010

You can look up, down, left and right and it’s all fantastic artwork.
Vatican Museum-011

Vatican Museum-012

From beginning to end this was what the crowd looked like. There was no chance at all to look at the art work at leisure even though you are not part of a tour group.
Vatican Museum-013

Vatican Museum- Belvedere Torso
Belvedere torso

I thought it was because it was summer time but our tour guide said it was this full of people all year round. It was really unbelievable! We went to several popular museums and none was as crowded as this and to think the museum was huge.
Vatican Museum-015

Vatican Museum-016

Walk, stop, walk a few steps, wait, pause, snap, snap, walk, pause.
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Vatican Museum-018

Vatican Museum-019

Vatican Museum-020

Vatican Museum-021
Gallery of Tapestries

Vatican Museum-022

We reached the entrance to the Sistine chapel around 2:30 pm but the guards wouldn’t let us through anymore. Many people were so mad and some were even yelling at the guards to no avail. Our tour guide was so apologetic and he grabbed a book from a kiosk and showed us the picture of the ceiling of Michaelangelo’s Sistine Chapel and explained the sections to us.

Sharon and Rochelle went back the next day and they had to pay another entrance fee, go through the crowded museum just to get to the Sistine Chapel just to see it. I couldn’t stand going through that again so I didn’t go with them.
Vatican Museum-023

Since we weren’t able to go to the Sistine Chapel I got to see the Vatican post office where many send a postcard from since the Vatican is an independent state and issues it’s own stamps. Many consider a postcard with a Vatican stamp a nice souvenir.
Vatican Museum-024

We also got to leave via the famous spiral staircase.
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Spiral Staircase

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I refilled my bottle with water from this.
Vatican Museum-027

There are lines to enter the St. Peter’s Basilica all day long.
Vatican Museum-028

For those planning a trip to Vatican check out this link. It has helped me a lot.

 

Rome: Flor Gelato

Flor Gelato - grandma's custard & extra bitter chocolate
I did my research beforehand for good places for gelato in Rome. A new brand of artisanal gelato called Flor has opened in Rome. Lucky for us a there was a branch near the Colosseum along Via Cavour near the entrance to the Roman Forum.

After our tour of the Colosseum we were so hot and tired that we decided to forego lunch for much needed gelato.
Flor Gelato-001

Flor Gelato-002

Flor Gelato-003

Just like Grom the gelato here are kept in steel vats and not displayed in huge artificial looking mounds filled with air. I really wanted to try the flavor citrus symphony (sinfonia di agrumi) made with lemons, mandarins and oranges but they didn’t have it that day.
Flor Gelato-004
fruit flavors

Flor Gelato-005

I chose the variegated cherry (variegato all’amarena) or cream with cherry syrup and extra bitter chocolate. You know those chocolate covered cherries? That’s what my combination tasted like only richer and more sinful. The extra bitter chocolate was the perfect partner to the creamy and sweet cherry gelato. Who needs food with gelato this good?
Flor Gelato- variegated cherry & extra bitter chocolate
variegated cherry & extra bitter chocolate €3

Rochelle’s choice of grandma’s custard (creme dela nonna) was scented with Sicilian lemon zest went well with the extra bitter chocolate gelato too. We’re both fans of dark chocolate.
Flor Gelato - grandma's custard & extra bitter chocolate
grandma’s custard & extra bitter chocolate

Sharon had the grandma’s nina tiramisu (tiramisu di nonna Nina) & gianduja (hazelnut & chocolate). All the flavors we chose were good!!! I don’t think there’s a bad flavor in Flor’s gelato.
Flor Gelato- grandma's nina tiramisu & gianduja
grandma’s nina tiramisu & gianduja

Flor Gelato

Flor Gelato
Via Cavour n° 337 – 00184 Roma
telephone: 06 6796995

Other branches:
Corso Rinascimento n° 34 – 00186 Roma
telephone: 06 68891955

Corso d’Italia n° 104 – 00198 Roma
telephone: 06 44234041

Via Boccea n° 82 – 00167 Roma
telephone: 06 6634906

Flor Gelato’s website

Rome: The Colosseum

The Colosseum-019
The Colosseum is one of the most popular sights to see in Rome and one that shouldn’t me missed. We bought our tickets for a guided tour which I highly recommend from Tickitaly.

From B&B San Pietro alle Fornaci we rode the public bus to a stop near the Colosseum. We had to walk a few minutes but the sights along the way were quite entertaining. Authentic looking costumes except for the cellphone.
gladiators

IMG_5335
walking along Via Cavour

If we only had time Rochelle and I wanted to see the Dali exhibit.
Museo Central Del Risorcimento
Museo Central Del Risorcimento

We got a close look at the Roman Forum with the ruins from ancient government buildings.
Roman Forum
Roman Forum

Roman Forum-001

Here’s my first look at the amazing Colosseum. There will be several people who will approach you offering guided tours. Avoid those. It’s best to book online from reputable sources.
The Colosseum

This amphitheater was built 1920 years ago as a venue for entertainment for the Romans. All kinds of games were held there as well as chariot battles, hunting of wild animals and eventually gladiator battles. Read more about it here.
The Colosseum-001

The Colosseum-002

We just presented our printed tickets to this counter.
The Colosseum-003

The Colosseum-004

Our tour guide spoke into a small walkie talkie and everyone else had the same unit tuned in to the same channel. Low tech yet quite effective. The picture on the right was how Rochelle and Sharon wore their walkie talkies. Our tour lasted about 45 minutes and it was very educational and well worth it. We learned so much about the history of the Colosseum.

The Colosseum-006 The Colosseum-005

The Colosseum-007

The Colosseum was used to host gladiatorial shows as well as a variety of other events. The shows, called munera, were always given by private individuals rather than the state. They had a strong religious element but were also demonstrations of power and family prestige, and were immensely popular with the population. 

Another popular type of show was the animal hunt, or venatio. This utilized a great variety of wild beasts, mainly imported from Africa and the Middle East, and included creatures such as rhinoceros, hippopotamuses, elephants, giraffes, aurochs, wisents, Barbary lions, panthers, leopards, bears, Caspian tigers, crocodiles and ostriches. Battles and hunts were often staged amid elaborate sets with movable trees and buildings. Such events were occasionally on a huge scale; Trajan is said to have celebrated his victories in Dacia in 107 with contests involving 11,000 animals and 10,000 gladiators over the course of 123 days. source
The Colosseum-008

When I look at this all I can think of is Russel Crowe and the lions from the movie Gladiator. This is the hypogeum where the gladiators and animals were kept before a game.
The Colosseum-009

The Colosseum-010

This is where the audience sat.
The Colosseum-011

We even got to go to the lower level for a closer view.
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The Colosseum-014

The Colosseum-016

The Colosseum-015

This was a part of the original flooring of the Colosseum.
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The Colosseum-020

An advantage to a guided tour was we got access to some areas prohibited to others. Our tour guide had to unlock this gate.
The Colosseum-021

From the upper level we had good views of nearby attractions like the Arch of Constantine, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum.
Arch of Constantine

Arch of Constantine-001
Arch of Constantine

Our entrance ticket actually included the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum but we decided not to go there anymore since it was too hot. We were in Rome in June which was summer time.
Palatine Hill
Palatine Hill
Palatine Hill-001

Even though we look dorky with these touristy hats they were invaluable. Don’t forget to bring hats when you travel in the summer. It’s a big help with the heat and the UV rays.
at The Colosseum

The Colosseum-022

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The Colosseum-023

The Colosseum-026

The Colosseum-027

These two were proud to have umbrellas to protect them against the sun.
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I wish we took the Segway tour in Rome like we did in Paris. Next time!!!
Segway in Rome

Rome: Restaurants on Via delle Fornaci

pizza with dry salted beef, rocket (arugula), Parmesan & mozzarella cheese €9.50
Since our B&B was surrounded with several restaurants we tried three of them. Most of the time we were tired after a whole day of walking at the Vatican or other sites so eating nearby was most convenient. The food we’ve eaten at these restaurants were just satisfactory nothing really memorable.

Even though the weather was very warm everybody sat outside. Rochelle and I shared the pizza made with dry salted beef, rocket (arugula), Parmesan & mozzarella cheese (€9.50). The crust was thin and crisp and not bad at all.
Ristorante La Vittoria

My cousin Sharon couldn’t get enough of marinated anchovies which we’ve been ordering since the Madrid.
marinated anchovies €8.50
marinated anchovies €8.50

Sharon ordered one of their specialties- fussili pasta with pancetta and spices.
Fusilli alla Califfa
Fusilli alla Califfa

Another dinner was at Camedda which was right across our B&B.
Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma

Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma-001

They sold wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and other items.

Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma-004 Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma-005

Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma-002

They were preparing this for another table. I wish we ordered it too.
Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma- cheese and salami
cheese and salami

The food they served were actually pre-cooked and kept in the chiller. It looked like it was supplied to them by another company.
Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma-007

Camedda - dal 1970 a Roma- menu
menu

Since I decided not to eat pasta anymore I ordered the meat of the day which was sliced steak with arugula and for my sides I chose spinach and broccoli. The flavor was good and the beef was tender. The veggies on the other hand were cooked to it’s death and were too soft.
straccetti di manzo (sliced steak with arugula) €12.50
straccetti di manzo (sliced steak with arugula) €12.50

Skinny Rochelle became obsessed with mozzarella and tomato salad after discovering how sweet Italian tomatoes were.
Caprese salad
Caprese salad

Sharon still wasn’t tired of eating pasta and she ordered the server’s suggestion of Culurgiones or Sardinian ravioli stuffed with potatoes and cheese. I didn’t even dare try this carb on carb dish.
Culurgiones  (Sardinian ravioli) €12.50
Culurgiones (Sardinian ravioli) €12.50

We had lunch at this cafe called Il Piccolo.
Il piccolo

Piccolo Cafe

When we walk down these steps at the end is the Vatican already.
Il piccolo-004

One of the most important things you should learn how to say in Italian is “acqua del rubinetto” or tap water (blue bottle) which is potable in Italy. Learning this short phrase will save you a lot of money.

Sha lives in the US so she has sensitive stomach and was scared to drink tap water. Rochelle and I live in the Philippines and we’re fearless. Not all restaurants will give you aqua del rubinetto but it doesn’t hurt to ask. We were lucky that they even gave us ice which is very rare.
bottled water €1.50 & acqua del rubinetto
bottled water €1.50 & acqua del rubinetto (free)

Even though crepes are not Italian I ordered it since I wanted something different.
crepe with mushroom, grana padano cheese & walnuts €7.50
crepe with mushroom, grana padano cheese & walnuts €7.50

The fresh mushrooms were barely cooked but I still loved them specially with the salty grana padano cheese and the toasted walnuts. It was one of my favorite meals in Rome.
crepe with mushroom, grana padano cheese & walnuts €7.50-001

Guess who ordered the lasagna?
lasagna al ragu €7
lasagna al ragu €7

Yes skinny Rochelle had the salad with Speck (juniper flavored cured ham) and Fontina cheese.
salad with Speck & Fontina cheese €7
salad with Speck & Fontina cheese €7

For dessert we shared a crepe filled with marmalade and Grand Marnier. Simple but delicious.
crepe with marmalade & Grand Marnier €6
crepe with marmalade & Grand Marnier €6
crepe with marmalade & Grand Marnier €6-001

Ristorante La Vittoria
Via delle Fornaci, 15 – 00165 Roma
telephone: 0663-1858
website

Camedda – dal 1970 a Roma
Panetteria Enoteca Pizzicheria
Via delle Fornaci, 46
telephone: 06.60664132
website

Il piccolo
Via delle Fornaci 22 00165 Roma
telephone: 06 630869

Rome: B&B San Pietro alle Fornaci

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-010
Without a doubt my favorite hotel/B&B in our European vacation was the B&B San Pietro alle Fornaci in Rome. A plus was it’s location which was a 5 minute walk to the Vatican and it was surrounded with restaurants and a Carrefour supermarket nearby. Another thing we appreciated was the bus stop right in front of our building which we used a lot.

We were met by Andrei who manages the B&B for his boss along with three other properties.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-001

We were fascinated with all the keys he carried around.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci

There was an elevator in the building.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-002

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-003

Sharon had the room right beside the entrance. It had a huge bed as well as another twin sized bed. Easily 3-4 people can fit in this room.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-004

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-008

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-005

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-006

The B&B had 3 rooms and our was at the end of the hallway.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-009

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-007

I loved the big room and simple decor.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-010

Nice bathroom too!
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-011

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-014 B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-015

Hairdryer and shampoo

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- room safe
room safe

Our room had a balcony but not much of a view so we never opened the door since we preferred the comfort of the cold air-condition.

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-012 B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-013

My most favorite part of this B&B was the washing machine and dryer. We quickly bought laundry detergent from Carrefour and did our laundry everyday. Yehey no more hand washing and clothesline.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- washing machine & dryer

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- kitchen

We were free to use the espresso machine, water kettle and refrigerator (inside the cabinet) as much as we want.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-019

This De’Longhi machine used pods and Andrei taught us how to make lattes. Wherever there’s free good coffee we’re happy.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-020

Every morning Andrei would bring a big box of bread, danish, croissant and ham & cheese sandwiches for our breakfast. He would also serve us blood orange juice. Not the best bread but it was good enough for our breakfast.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- breakfast

I still ate my daily yogurt for breakfast which Rochelle bought from Carrefour.

B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- yogurt B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci- breakfast

There was free wifi in the B&B too. What more can I ask for? I HIGHLY recommend B&B San Pietro alle Fornaci  to anyone planning travel to Rome. It’s very easy to communicate with the owner, Marius since he responds to our email immediately. He was also very helpful with arranging our transportation and whatever else we needed.
B&B San Pietro Alle Fornaci-025

B&B San Pietro alle Fornaci
Via delle Fornaci 49, 00165 Rome, Italy
telephone: 0039-3408199268
info@bblefornaci.com
website

Rome: Trenitalita from Florence to Rome

train from Florence to Rome-001
In my recent trip to Europe I was able to try all kinds of transportation. In Spain we drove a rental car and flew to Florence. This time we took a train to Rome for 1 1/2 hours.

I would say taking the train was the easiest and most comfortable way to travel in Europe for shorter distances. You can arrive in the station just a few minutes before departure assuming you already have your tickets. There’s no security check or long queues either.
train from Florence to Rome

train from Florence to Rome-003

We got a 1st class seat that has assigned seating.
train from Florence to Rome-002

That’s all our luggages. Mine is the smallest blue luggage at the bottom left. When you travel by train I suggest you travel light since you have to haul it into the train yourself. There’s nobody to help you.
train from Florence to Rome-004

I didn’t use the bathroom but it was big and clean.
train from Florence to Rome-006

train from Florence to Rome-007

Our ticket was a super economy meaning no changes and no refund. We paid only €29 for a first class seat to Rome.
train from Florence to Rome-008

train from Florence to Rome-009

We were given a free drink, a pack of cookies and wet wipes.
train from Florence to Rome-010

I didn’t see much of the view because I quickly fell asleep.
train from Florence to Rome-012

We arrived in Rome’s busy Termini station and looked for the driver who was picking us up.
Rome Termini station

Rome Termini station-001

Rome Termini station-005

The owner of our B&B in Rome arranged for a van to pick us up at the station.
Rome Termini station-002

Rome Termini station-003

Rome Termini station-004

Here are some shots of Rome that I took while in the nice van.
shots of Rome

shots of Rome-001

shots of Rome-002

shots of Rome-003

Lunch at Ukokkei Ramen Ron

Ukokkei Ramen Ron- Kara Miso Ramen (level 3) P370-001
When a picture of a closed Ukokkei spread around Facebook and you could almost hear gasps of shock and dismay jump out of the comments section. The only thing that went through my mind was, “I haven’t even tried it.”

You see I’m not much of a ramen fan. I could go years without a bowl of ramen touching my lips. I find more joy in a plate of yaki udon or chahan, my choice of  Japanese carbs.

So when pictures of the reopened Makati branch surfaced,  my Ukokkei virgin friends and I decided once and for all to try this place led by our friend Deb who’s an Ukokkei fanatic.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron

We went there as early as 11:30 am so we can get seats. True enough by noon the restaurant was packed.
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Take note of these items since they are not on the menu. Most of us ordered the Kara Miso Ramen with  a choice of 5 levels of heat.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron-004

We were all given just one glass of cold barley tea for free. I heard that their Malate branch gave unlimited refills.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron-005

The gyoza was pretty good with it’s thin skin and crispy bottom. The pork filling was salty enough not to need any soy sauce.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron- gyoza P120
Yaki Gyoza P120

Sam was the only one who ordered a shio (salt) soup base ramen. She just likes the milder broth. Other options for the soup base are shoyu (soy sauce) and miso (soybean paste).
Ukokkei Ramen Ron- Ukokkei Shio Butter Corn P350
Ukokkei Shio Butter Corn P350

Based on Deb’s suggestion most of us ordered the Kara Miso Ramen with level 3 heat. First thing I did was put all the chili paste on another plate and added some to my soup little by little. With the amount I used I think next time I will just order level 1.

The most important thing to remember when ordering at Ukokkei are the words “katamen” and “less oil.”

Katamen means you want harder or more al dente noodles. This is important since the hot soup continues to cook and soften the ramen noodles while you eat. This way you won’t be left with soggy noodles by the time you’re half way through your bowl.

Less oil if you want a cleaner tasting broth and you’re more health conscious. But if you want all the goodness fat brings just don’t mention it.

So what’s the fuss all about? Why is Ukokkei one of the most popular ramen places in Manila? I tried a spoonful of the soup and had the answer right there. The miso soup was 3D and a burst of umami flavors in my mouth. I’ve never tasted a more “in your face” soup base before. It tasted like it’s been simmering for hours. The ramen didn’t even need the thin slice of pork. Just the soup was more than enough for me to eat all the wonderful al dente noodles.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron- Kara Miso Ramen (level 3) P370
Kara Miso Ramen (level 3) P370

Two of my friends ordered the lunch sets which seemed to be a very good deal. Set C had a small bowl of miso ramen, curry rice, gyoza (not in picture) and a side salad. We tried the curry and it was yummy but you need to eat it quickly while it’s hot. It turned too greasy when cold.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron- Lunch Set C P380
Lunch Set C P380

Janet’s lunch set had a plate of yaki soba (fried noodles), soup gyoza, onigiri (rice ball) and side salad. She didn’t eat the onigiri so I don’t know what was the filling inside.
Ukokkei Ramen Ron- Lunch Set B P380
Lunch Set B P380

I was really happy with my ramen but I had to force myself to finish the whole bowl. I was soooo full I felt I pants were going to burst. I now understand why Ukokkei is so popular despite all the horror stories I’ve heard like not being allowed to sit on the edge of the ledge while putting on shoes. There’s also no peeking in the open kitchen, no sharing and all the rules had me meek as mouse lest they kick me out for laughing too loud. But when the guy at the table next to us spoke loud enough for us to hear his stories and he didn’t get ejected we began to relax and laugh more.

I was SO DISAPPOINTED that Ukokkei’s nazi tendencies were ABSENT when we were there. All the servers were pleasant and smiling, our food and bill came out fast. My friends were able to sit and wear their shoes. Did their short closure scare the beejeebies out of them? Darn I was hoping to feel the heat. Oh well….

After lunch we didn’t linger and moved to Deb’s house for coffee and dessert.  I’ve always wanted to try Wildflour’s sticky buns but it was out of stock when I went back. Deb was so thoughtful to buy a box full of sticky buns for our dessert.
Wildflour's sticky buns P130
Wildflour’s sticky buns P130

Not too sweet and not bad at all. I wasn’t just blown away like I was expecting. I think using the more traditional pecans would have tasted better on the sticky buns.
Wildflour's sticky buns P130-001

I’ve heard so much about Peninsula Hong Kong’s special custard mooncakes. Four tiny pieces cost HK$238 (P1,267).
The Peninsula HK's Mini Egg Custard Mooncakes
The Peninsula HK’s Mini Egg Custard Mooncakes

Someone gifted Deb with these and she generously shared them with us. It was just average. The filling was a custard similar to yema but not as sweet. It was different all right but for us who are used to this kind of taste it was nothing unusual.
The Peninsula HK's Mini Egg Custard Mooncakes -001

Ukokkei Ramen Ron menu-001 Ukokkei Ramen Ron menu-002

Ukokkei Ramen Ron menu
click to enlarge

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Ukokkei Ramen Ron
Tesoro Bldg., 822 A. Arnaiz Ave.
San Lorenzo, Makati
telephone: 856-4588

Yummy Eats at Manda Centrale

Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL) - All Beef in Pita P90

Just the other day I read about a new night market opening near Shaw and planned to visit it one day since it’s so near my home and business. Yesterday the rain clouds, good timing and my driver’s decision to pass the area as a shortcut from Edsa I got the chance to go to Manda Centrale half an hour before they officially opened.

It was 5:30 in the afternoon and I could feel my tummy grumbling and I suddenly remembered Manda Centrale was about to open and my car happened to be just outside the parking lot. A quick detour and we went in the dark and confusing parking lot of the market. The parking area was pitch black. I hope they will open the perimeter lighting in the future.
Manda Centrale-001

As usual there were lots of grilling going on and some areas were really smokey.
Manda Centrale- Dadi's Berd-001
Dadi’s Berd

Manda Centrale- Dadi's Berd

There were familiar vendors from Mercato Centrale and some new ones.
Manda Centrale- Juana Bowl
Juana Bowl

Manda Centrale- Shrimp World-001
Shrimp World

Manda Centrale- Shrimp World

Manda Centrale- Sumoyaki Takoyaki
Sumoyaki Takoyaki

I passed by Carlo’s Kitchen twice and got to try the delicious crispy belly twice.
Manda Centrale- Crunchy Belly from Carlo's Kitchen-001
Carlo’s Kitchen

An order cost P120 without rice and P10 more with rice. It was really crunchy and reminded me of chicharon. I’m sure this is will be a big hit in the market.
Manda Centrale- Crunchy Belly from Carlo's Kitchen
Crunchy Belly

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Edgys Food trip

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There were more than 2 stalls selling sausages.
Manda Centrale- Sinangag Trip
Sinangag Trip

Manda Centrale- Mad About Spuds
Mad About Spuds

The rain wasn’t that strong but the ground was wet. I hope nobody slips.

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My main reason for going to Manda Centrale was to try Gino’s brick oven pizza after I read about my friend Jojo raving about it. I’ve always wanted to try it but never found the time to go to Katipunan Ave. Too bad they were just heating up the oven and not ready to sell any pizzas yet. They only had cheese pizza. I guess I have to go to their main store to try the Bianca Verde and Margherita pizzas.
Manda Centrale- Gino's Brick Oven Pizza
Gino’s Brick Oven Pizza

I love chicken empanada and always try out new ones. The seller told me these were freshly baked and contained more chicken than potatoes. I was sold! I love the store’s name too – Sugar Mommy. They sold lots of cakes, ensaymada and nitrate free sausages.
Manda Centrale- Sugar Mommy's Chicken Empanada P30
Sugar Mommy’s Chicken Empanada P30

The empanada was very good. It was filled with tender cubes of chicken, pimiento, raisins and small cubes of potatoes. It wasn’t too rich or creamy either. The crust was soft and thin which I really appreciated. I really hate thick crust with little filling. I will buy more next time.
Manda Centrale- Sugar Mommy's Chicken Empanada P30-001

With all the food options I chose to buy beef shawarma. It’s one of my favorite meals. I asked the guy why he was cooking the beef in a pan over a stove. He said it took too long to heat in the shawarma grill.
Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL)
Shawarma Fusion

I asked if he put any sauce since the beef looked quite wet. He said it came from the marinade.
Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL) -001

Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL) menu
Shawarma Fusion menu

I chose an all beef pita with a little garlic, chili and cheese sauce. Oh my GAAADDDDDD! It was soooo good. The beef was really juicy with all the gravy from the marinade and I could smell all the spices used. The meat wasn’t fatty and there were no hard ligaments unlike others.  It’s one of the best shawarma I’ve ever eaten. Next time I’ll just put more chili sauce since I didn’t really taste the cheese sauce. I am definitely going back for more shawarma.
Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL) - All Beef in Pita P90
All Beef in Pita P90

Manda Centrale- Shawarma Fusion (IRL) - garlic, cheese & chili sauces
garlic, cheese & chili sauce

MERCATO CENTRALE SITE PLAN
picture from Our Awesome Planet

Manda Centrale
Mayflower Parking Area, Greenfield District, Mandaluyong
Open every Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday from 6:00pm to 3:00 am.
Check out the list of Manda Centrale’s vendors here
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